I really need to publish this blog post. It’s been sitting here neglected in draft form for almost two weeks.

The weekend of 5-7 Dec, we tramped around Tongariro Northern Circuit. The Circuit includes the Tongariro Crossing “the best, and the busiest one day walk in New Zealand”. The other parts of the tramp are also spectacular, but by contrast empty.

We left Auckland at the respectable time of 10ish and got down to Whakapapa and then walked in to Mangatepopo Hut. Took about 3hrs. It’s quite amazing looking up at the stars in a clear night sky when outside of the city’s light pollution. Played around with the long exposure “night sky” mode on my camera taking photos from the porch of the hut. We were looking East (maybe a little bit North). Recognised Orion and the Pleiades (aka the Seven Sisters or Matariki).

Next day was a long slog. If you’ve done the Crossing, you’ll be interested to know it bypasses the Devil’s Staircase now (My sister thinks this is a shocking sop to the unfit busloads of tourists) The track still climbs from the level of Mangatepopo up to South Crater, but instead of tacking it straight on, it switchbacks back and forth at a gentle gradient which we managed with me calling for only one rest stop. Don’t let me kid you that I found it easy (I’m don’t think I’m any more fit than a tourist of the bus at the mo), but it wasn’t the mission I remember my first walk here being. (no photos of the climb sorry, too busy breathing.)

The climb past Red Crater is still the same. Still tough up and then a fun slide down the scoria, pitying the fools who do it the other way. Red Crater, the Emerald Lakes and Blue Lake are spectacular. (Anu you’re not allowed to look at the photos of these because you have to go tramp it yourself!)

Then we left the hordes of daywalkers behind and pretty much had the track to ourselves. Down into Mordor. Stopped for lunch at Oturere Hut where we had some excitement when the rescue helicopter arrived. They had Martin who had slipped and slid down Ngauruhoe, injuring, possibly breaking his hip. The search and rescue guys needed to lighten the helicopter to go pick up another boy, so we gave a hand getting Marthin out of the helicopter and kept him company while they flew off to do that. (photo by Michelle). Oturere also had an interesting solar water header which had the water up to boiling temperature.

The walk from Oturere to Waihohonu isn’t that far, but after the Crossing I definitely did feel the hills. (I’ve already admitted I’m not too fit.) When we got to the last climb up through the forest, I remembered what a killer that was and had to take it at slower pace than Brian-just-1km-more and Michelle. Waihohonu Hut was pretty packed with 4 guys choosing to sleep out on the deck, but everyone was considerate and friendly, and Rosemary the Hut Warden made us feel very welcome. Visited Onetangi Springs which was also a exploratory mission onto the Ruapehu Round-the-Mountain track.

Having completed our mega day, Sunday was pretty easy. We stopped for a Lower Tama Lake view, having been helpfully alerted how cool it was by one of the Duke of Edinburgh Award party we’d shared Waihohonu hut with. Made it out to showers, beer and food at Ohakune by early early afternoon, after needing only minor roadside assistance with my car (stone in the brakes). My one disappointment in this trip is the beautiful tender delicious lamb dish which we’d had last time in Ohakune is no longer available.

All my photos are available here. And if you haven’t already read it, Michelle posted her version of the tramp on her blog.